Costa Maya, Mexico with Mahahual Ecotours
I like competent people. If you are a fixture in my life it is probably because you are knowledgeable, competent, authentic, and you are making the world around you better. I tend to bristle at folks who are fake, or who fake what they can do.
I think this comes from having a doctor for a father and a nurse for a mother. There’s no faking it in those professions. You can either do surgery on an eyeball, or you can’t. You can either soothe people while they are going through the worst suffering of their lives, or you can’t. My parents were competent, authentic and caring, and they raised their children to be the same; a fact my siblings reflect every day.
This may seem like a tangent in a travel blog, but it’s not. When researching various tours and excursions for our cruise. I was looking for an expert who had all the above traits to guide my family on a day of adventure in Costa Maya. I was looking for something special. It took a long time, but then reading through reviews on Trip Advisor I read about Victor Rosales of Mahahual Ecotours, and I knew I hit jackpot. I sent him a letter and crossed my fingers that he was available. He was.
Fast forward to March 28, 2018, the day we arrived in Costa Maya aboard the Norwegian Dawn. We made our way through the shops and amenities at the port, already sweating from the 80 degree heat of the Costa Maya mid-morning.
Many vendors approached us offering services, but we rolled with the confidence of a family that had a well-drawn map in hand and a plan. I had practiced saying "Mahahual Ecotours" and a repeated it each time we were approached. I was pronouncing it incorrectly, but well enough that folks nodded and encouraged us forward.
Victor was easily recognizable. For one thing, he was exactly where he said he would be, near a line of taxis outside of the port gate. Second, he was the only person there dressed like a Mayan Indiana Jones.
He was about 5’9 and dressed head to foot in khaki. He was deeply tanned, with a lined, stoic face and a muscular build. His boots reminded me of the boots of a soldier – camouflaged and well-worn. He carried a backpack and a fanny pack he wore slung on his hip, and throughout the day he would pull out maps and guidebooks from both. He looked resolute. I could feel myself relax and put my family in his capable hands.
He showed us to the vehicle he had arranged for the day, a Toyota Avanza. He introduced us to Israel, who would be our driver and assistant for the day. The boys clamored into the back seat, and Victor, Israel and I worked together to help Mike transfer from his manual wheelchair to the front seat by using his slide board. The first time was awkward, and we should have had one of us inside the vehicle in a support position. Mike ended up tilting face first the middle console. Luckily he partially caught himself and there was no damage done. (For the rest of the day Victor and Israel would lift from outside the vehicle and I would steady Mike from the inside and it went very smoothly.) I taught them how to collapse Mike’s manual chair, they loaded it up, and off we went.
The plan for the day included two parts: tour Mayan ruins and snorkeling. Both boys had studied Mayan culture in school, and visiting Mayan ruins was one of their top choices for activities on this trip. Snorkeling was mom and dad’s idea. Mike was an avid scuba diver and snorkeler in his younger days, but the boys had never tried it. Costa Maya has some of the best snorkeling in the world, and we were really looking forward to the boys having an amazing introduction.
Unfortunately, the snorkeling was not meant to be. One of the first things Victor told us was that due to very high winds that day the ocean was choppy, visibility was low, and he did not recommend that we go snorkeling. This was disappointing news, no doubt. But we accepted his judgement immediately. As for the Mayan ruins, Victor said we were heading straight there to beat the tour bus crowds.
As we drove to the ruins, about a 50 minute drive, Victor began to weave a tale about his Mayan ancestors. The ruins we were visiting had been common knowledge to locals, but it wasn’t until 1972 that an American archaeologist brought them to the attention of the world. Since then the Mexican National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH) has been excavating and restoring the site, called Chacchoben. This is quite a task, as the jungle has been trying to hide them for roughly 2000 years. Victor talked the entire way there, then continued his lecture as we explored the fascinating, ancient site.
We were pleased with how well Mike’s manual wheelchair navigated the gravel pathways around the ruins. When there were places Mike’s wheelchair could not go, the boys and I would often continue on and either Victor or Israel would stay with Mike, continuing to share their knowledge and swap stories.
We felt honored to have a private tour with someone as knowledgeable as Victor. He had an iPad and maps and other resources with him, so no matter what question we asked, he was prepared with an answer. Israel was an invaluable help, and chatted kindly with Mike about a range of topics all day.
About two hours of exploring the ruins and we were ready for lunch.
Our next stop was a pineapple plantation that Victor knew well and took tours to frequently. (I'm not sure, but I believe he may be a part owner of the plantation/restaurant.) The accessibility features were refreshing, including new-looking stone paths and ramps. The open air palapa where we ate lunch was stunning.
We enjoyed a delicious lunch of chicken fajitas and fresh squeezed pineapple juice. Mike and Victor continued swapping stories. Mike shared the story of a pygmy owl taking on much larger prey in Montana, and Victor reached into his pocket, pulled out a bird guide and showed us the owl, then told a story of his own. The two of them could have carried on this way the rest of the day – the rest of the week – I’m convinced – but we needed to press on.
We took a short tour of the plantation, learning all about pineapples, tasting fresh pineapple with lime and chili pepper, then capped it all off with a yummy pineapple sorbet.
On the hour long drive back to port we had more great conversation. Victor described his educational studies in Mayan culture, ecology, ornithology, biology, zoology and more. He is deeply involved in helping to protect the habitat of local endangered sea turtles, which have been harmed by unintentional destructive practices of locals and tourists. He has organized an effort to educate local schoolchildren, getting students involved in beach cleanup at crucial times, like when eggs are hatching. He also works with local police to organize patrols of volunteers to protect nesting sea turtles from poachers. A friend helped him to start a Go Fund Me page to support these efforts, and the site can be found here: https://www.gofundme.com/protect-the-sea-turtles-of-mahahual
We would like to find a way to support Victor's ongoing work with endangered sea turtles. Mike's idea is for an American classroom to partner with a classroom in Costa Maya, and together organize a fundraiser and share knowledge. I hope there are a few teachers reading who might like that idea, share it and get it going. It only takes a spark...
We had a wonderful, unforgettable day in Costa Maya. An ancient civilization was brought to life, and we were able to introduce our boys to a modern Mayan hero. Victor’s generosity in sharing his culture, his work and his home will never be forgotten.
